Water pressure drops or stops completely for a short time then comes back on.
Pump cycles frequently.
Air in lines.
Consistent low pressure (submersible pump). Pump never shuts off.
High iron, Iron bacteria, sulpher odor, hardness, etc.
My well is unsafe because of (insert contaminant)
Pressure tank is improperly charged (too much air) or pressure switch is defective. This can also happen is pressure switch is adjusted without balancing with air pressure in tank.
Pressure tank probable waterlogged and/or has ruptured bladder.
Significant leak in piping or hose is turned on out back.
Connection on suction side of shallow well pump system not airtight. Source restricted in jet pump system causing pump to cavitate excessively.
Submersible system overpumping well.
Significant water leak/fixture running.
Electrical problem only allowing half voltage to pump.
Carefully read the next column
Check tank for proper air charge balanced with pressure switch. Adjust as necessary. Check for proper adjustment and operation of pressure switch. Adjust or replace as necessary.
Replace pressure tank if that is found to be the case. Do not delay as this can lead to pump failure!
Find and fix leak or turn hose off.
Identify source and repair or replace cause.
Restrict pump flow or increase well volume.
Isolate leak and repair.
Is any other portion of home experiencing lack of power? If so, it is very possible that your 230 volt pump is only running on 115 volts. Call us or Licensed Electrician.
Treat source (well) if practical with responsible construction methods.
If not applicable, call qualified water treatment professional.
Problem
Probable cause
Solution
Water pressure drops or stops completely for several minutes then comes back on.
Pump motor may be damaged and drawing high enough amps to trip the thermal overload but not trip the breaker.
Pressure switch may be defective.
Pump is overpumping well
Replace pump motor or entire pump as necessary.
Replace pressure switch.
Restrict pump flow or increase well volume.
Pump cycles occasionally when no one is using water.
Household fixture is leaking (like a toilet running) unnoticed.
Check valve (foot valve and or leathers in a 2" well) leaking.
Hole in casing or run-in in 2" well.
Fix leak.
Replace check valve/foot valve.
Likely need to drill new well & Abandon old.
Good pressure (2" well) for awhile then pressure drops significantly. Pump runs a long time before it shuts back off.
Plugged well screen in 2" well.
Replace well screen or drill new well. (In some cases, other treatments can be applied but with limited success.)
Sand in water.
Screen damaged or worn. Hole in casing. Bedrock well needs more developing or redeveloping.
Running pump (overpumping) well so that pump does not cycle off can help, however, the problem can become worse before it gets better. When in doubt, call us!
Bad bacteria sample.
Ensure well is code-compliant (call us!).
Chlorinate well responsibly or call us to perform that task and resample.
This is by no means a comprehensive list, just a cross section of things we encounter from time to time. Do not do anything hazardous or beyond your comfort level. Do not take your pump apart as it will cost you more for us to repair the pump and the original problem! Call us if you have any questions!
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